Buenos Aires, hoy. This is here and this is now. A happy mess made of many flying electric cables, broken sidewalks and a big crowd of people called "porteños". This people is crisis-proof : they always adapt to extreme situations. The city is beautiful for its historical buildings, its ugly ones too. Its authenticity is hard to describe, yet is strong. Some things that are part of it : the medianeras, the old pizzerias, the cartoneros, the passion for queueing, the barbecue smoke over the city on the week-end •